Last updated: 8 July 2019

For the lovers, the dreamers and me

There’s something about the Isle of Capri that even the wildest parts seem manicured in comparison to Capri's local counterparts of Ischia and Procida. This is true across the island, from Anacapri’s lush countryside to Astarita Park above the town of Capri, where the coastal pine trees and other Mediterranean plants mark the way to Villa Jovis (one of many villas of Roman Emperor Tiberius). And somehow the man-made beauty of Capri, painted stark white or in pastel shades of lemon, peach and other summer fruits, flows seamlessly into its natural surroundings. This happens everywhere – from the shops and hotels camouflaged by lemon trees, jasmine and bougainvillea to the restaurants like Da Paolino which have literally grown up out of backyard orchards.  

The island’s most historic and charming hotel, La Palma, less than 100 meters from the main square of Capri (“La Piazzetta”) is no exception. I have been a guest at La Palma many times over the years, including twice last summer and already once this season. Every time I walk into the hotel, I feel as though the warmth, beauty and distinct colors of the island have followed me inside, starting with the welcome sight of the bronzed, friendly faces at reception who seem to light up the reception desk with their smiles.

The hotel captures the very essence of Caprese style in all its details, from the lobby to the 72 spacious guest rooms, each decorated in traditional Mediterranean colors with dreamy frescoed walls (even in the bathrooms) and matching traditionally tiled floors. The grand entrance of La Palma, majestically framed by an explosion of magenta bougainvillea and ivy for days, is slightly set back from Capri’s main street - which would be a pedestrian thoroughfare except for the slim-line porters’ vehicles which alarmingly honk as they pass regularly. The hotel’s corner terrace, dripping with lemons, is the perfect spot to watch the 24/7 passing fashion parade, ideally with a cocktail in hand. I would recommend relaxing into the evening with a 'La Palma Spritz' or one of the island’s best bellinis while enjoying a special selection of savory treats. Stay for dinner, exquisitely prepared by award-winning Executive Chef Marco Cuccaro. Naturally the menu is heavy on fresh seafood.

“There are two ways to see the world: one is by traveling; the other is sitting on the terrace at La Palma and wait for the world to pass in front of you.” - Prince Francesco Caravita di Sirignano

The elegant, open style of La Palma is a contemporary take on the artistic spirit of the original “Locanda Pagano” (the name of the villa in 1822), where artists, writers and musicians from all over the world were hosted by notary Giuseppe Pagano to realize their works while being wrapped in the atmosphere of Capri and its wild nature. In 1826 one of these artists-in-residence – who will forever link La Palma to the history of Capri – was young German poet August Kopisch, the first to swim in to the world’s most famous cave, which he named “La Grotta Azzurra” (the Blue Grotto) after being dazzled by the radiant light which he described as being “like the light of a blue flame.” Pagano invited artists like Kopisch for their eccentric conversations and they often repaid his generosity by singing and playing music, or by sharing their art and poetry on the hotel’s walls. Its fame as an artists' haven grew throughout the 19th century and beyond. La Palma’s open-arms welcome hasn’t changed a bit, carried on today by Hotel Director Giovanni Monti, and visitors can still see the tribute to the early visiting artists encased in the walls of the hotel. 

La Palma's lobby is like a secret indoor garden of oversized floral art masterpieces set underneath the high vaulted ceilings. A mountain of lime, pink and lilac hydrangea dwarfs the lobby, visible from every vantage point from the reception desk to the breakfast room – where more delights await. Freshly baked local pastries and the sweet, sun-ripened, brightly-colored fruits contrast the stiff white table cloths. This is the ultimate daily morning ritual to energize me for hiking the length and breadth of Capri! As I wander out from the breakfast terrace and under the arches of espaliered lemon trees to join the rest of sleepy Capri, I imagine some of La Palma’s atmosphere and creative inspiration felt by the 19th century artists rubbing off!